Things to Do in Chur - Where to Go, What to Eat, Where to Drink, and Where to Stay

After a few weeks of backpacking travel and interrail experience in June, I arrived in Chur, Switzerland's oldest city and the gateway to the Alps. Seen as a bridge between Germany and Italy, Chur is the starting point of the famous Bernina Express. The city is surrounded by beautiful heritage buildings and lush vineyards, nestled among the mountains. Here, you will notice that the pace of life is calm and relaxed. In fact, there is a local word that describes this state - 'Patgific'. After spending a day here, I truly relaxed and took on a patgific mood. However, it is said that under the protection of the mountains, Chur actually has a dark side. The famous artist HR Giger lived here, and Chur also hosted Switzerland's most notorious prison. This prison, closed to the local people for 200 years, has been transformed into Bogentrakt Hostel, a modern, stylish, and sustainable hostel run by a good friend of mine, Marco. The dark past has been left behind and replaced with a wonderful temporary home. A perfect place for remote workers. There are also great restaurants and charming bars where you can experience local cuisine. So whether you are a nature hiker, someone interested in Giger, a train enthusiast, or want to experience the patgific lifestyle and relax at Bogentrakt Hostel or party with the Polenta 7000 team, Chur has something to offer every traveler. This blog post will present the best things to do in Chur, as well as practical information such as where to eat in Chur, the best day trips from Chur, and where to stay on a budget in Chur.

Introduction to Chur

Chur is a small medieval mountain town located in the eastern part of Switzerland, in the canton of Grisons. Known as the country's oldest town, this perfectly preserved piece of Swiss history takes visitors to a slower-paced, peaceful, and more relaxed lifestyle. In the Old Town, filled with heritage buildings and lush vineyards that gently climb the surrounding hills, it is almost possible to believe that time has stopped. Chur is recognized for its deep-rooted history that stretches back to prehistoric times and is home to many nationally significant heritage buildings. Strategically located on the Rhaetian Railway route, Chur is an ideal place to rest for a few days and reflect on the tranquility and beauty of the mountain views.

Best Things to Do in Chur

1. Exploring the Old Town

The oldest town in Switzerland is found in Chur's Old Town. Visiting Chur, with its settlement history dating back five thousand years, is like entering a time tunnel and breathing in the reality of a forgotten past. Surrounded by enchanting snow-capped peaks and Chur's dark towers, this high city appears closely tied to its medieval past. The pedestrian-only Old Town allows visitors to freely explore its winding streets and avenues, making it a great place to discover town squares, ancient churches, mural walls, cafes, shops, and museums.

2. Discovering the City by Playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore Chur's main sights is by playing Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any living space; from Chur's narrow and winding stone streets to unused industrial warehouses and schoolyards. In Chur, you can rent a golf set and a special soft ball for a small fee from the tourist information office, and you can also get a map to master the 9 holes scattered between the streets and squares of the old town. This is a truly fun way to explore and interact with the place, always receiving admiration and entertainment responses from locals and tourists alike, ensuring you won't have a dull moment. It is an activity that people of all ages can enjoy.

Basic Information: To play 9 holes in Chur with your friends or family, you need to pay a total of 15 CHF. Completing all 9 holes takes about 2.5 – 3 hours. When picking up the equipment from the ‘Tourist Information’ office, a cash deposit fee of 10 CHF per person is required. The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 softball, 1 “bäseli,” and 1 rope. The deposit will be refunded when the equipment is returned.

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is a Catholic Church born from the perfect combination of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Built on a hill surrounded by green vineyards, the Episcopal Court includes the 800-year-old Cathedral and the neighboring Bishop's Palace. The magnificent golden Gothic altar dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary contrasts with the exterior, showing that eastern influences shaped its construction due to its proximity to important ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral has three naves and is made from rocks sourced from the central nave Scalära. The portal of the main entrance is reinforced with six columns supported by a six-colored arch. Notable features inside the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the ornate choir, and the stunning stained glass arched window.

4. St. Martin Church

The Gothic tower of St. Martin Church leaves a lasting mark on the silhouette of Chur's Old Town. This Romanesque Church, built in the 8th century in honor of St. Martin of Tours, was burned in 1464 and rebuilt in Gothic style. A newer feature of the church is the three stained glass windows made by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower and its pointed black spire serve as a practical landmark in the town center, and the view of the Old Town and surroundings from the church tower should not be missed.

5. Rhaetian Museum

Rhaetian Museum is dedicated to the history and culture of the surrounding region; that is, the Canton of Graubünden. It is a treasure chest filled with ethnographic, archaeological, and sociological findings and information. This permanent exhibition spreads across four floors of the Baroque museum building, which was constructed in 1675 and is itself a piece of history. Young children can also benefit from visiting the museum. A fun way for children to explore the exhibits from their perspective is to obtain a special key from the ticket office to learn about the history of each exhibit. In each room of the museum, there is a locked box that shows the history of individual exhibits when opened with the key. This not only conveys information from a different angle but also makes each child feel extremely special.

A small museum shop offers carefully prepared gifts and souvenirs. The museum is generally wheelchair accessible.

Ticket prices are 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for seniors and students, and free for children under 16.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you will be entitled to the Chur Guest Card, which provides free access to the Rhaetian Museum, Graubünden Natural History Museum, and Graubünden Art Museum.

6. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Located just a two-minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graubünden and has a history of over 300 years. The beautiful heritage building Villa Planta is adorned with a new extension designed by Barozzi Veiga and houses 8,000 artworks in an area of 1,200 square meters. The museum focuses on contemporary art with strong connections to Angelika Kauffmann, the Giacometti artist family, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, and the ‘Rot-Blau’ artist group.

Admission is 15 CHF for adults, while children under 16 are free.

Discovering Street Art

Chur is home to one of the world's most famous street artists, BANE. You can find wall murals throughout the city that are astonishing in scale and detail.

Must-see works include the Mühleturm, which is Chur's "creative symbol," and the largest mural in Switzerland, “I have a dream” (2015); this piece was created in collaboration with street artist Pest.

Brambrüesch

Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier

Brambrüesch, located just above Chur and easily accessible by cable car, is a hiker's paradise in summer with its stunning meadows filled with various Alpine plants and incredible panoramic views of the surrounding mountains of Arosa, Schanfigg, and Lenzerheide. The trail begins with a very enjoyable and scenic walk towards Malixer Alp. If you haven't had lunch, you can try delicious and affordable local Alpine cuisine at Bergbaiz. After a relatively easy hike, the views become more impressive as you climb to a higher point. This hike was an enjoyable experience even for a novice hiker with a fear of heights. The diversity of flora and fauna, the views - truly a unique experience. There is a slow descent towards Pradaschier; here, the cozy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its magnificent sun terrace offers visitors the opportunity to relax with a drink or enjoy delicious Graubünden dishes like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the thrilling descent to Churwalden - this toboggan run, which is three kilometers long with 31 turns, some of which are sharp bends, has entered the Guinness World Records as the longest rail toboggan run in Europe. The toboggan descent costs 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for children aged 13-17, and 9 CHF for children under 13.

Note: If you have the Chur Guest Card, you receive a 50% discount on the ascent and descent at the Chur-Brambrüesch cable cars.

Da Mamma

Where to Eat in Chur

I will publish a more comprehensive guide on where to eat in my next article, but here are a few tips. If you are looking for affordable traditional homemade Italian cuisine, you should go to Da Mamma. The fixed-price 2-course vegetarian lunch menu is only 16.30 CHF, making it one of the best value lunch opportunities in town. If you enjoy South Indian/Tamil cuisine, you should stop by Yaal; here, the lunch buffet starts at just 19.90 CHF. Kostbar, next to Bogentrakt Hostel, offers a good mix of local dishes like Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort foods like burgers and curry. Prices start at 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers salads, sandwiches, and snacks at reasonable prices. For example, a nicoise salad is 8.50 CHF. Finally, try Wok and Momo; this restaurant run by Tibetan operators offers a variety of dishes from perfectly priced fried wok noodles (starting at 7 CHF) to momos (18.50 CHF).

It is worth mentioning Polenta 7000 as a special note; this is a summer pop-up festival organized by local creatives and like-minded spirits. Visitors can enjoy delicious meals (chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF), concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, outdoor cinema, and a children's circus. The season will end on September 26, 2023, but be sure to follow the Polenta 7000 website for next summer's pop-up.

Best Day Trips from Chur

From Chur to Tirano by Bernina Express

Bernina Express is an experience that must be done if you are visiting Chur. This train passes through one of the world's most magnificent and scenic routes, offering passengers an unforgettable travel experience for a lifetime. Starting from Chur, the Bernina Express ascends towards Switzerland's Engadin Alps and concludes its journey in the Italian city of Tirano. The train astonishingly crosses 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, ascends high mountain passes, traverses glaciers and alpine lakes, winds through spiral viaducts, passes alongside glaciers, and crosses national borders. Key highlights of the journey include the Bernina Pass at an altitude of 2253 meters, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct, and the stunning views between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm tracks are fully electrified and utilize a 7% gradient to overcome steep elevation differences. Panorama cars provide passengers the opportunity to internalize the views and take plenty of photos and videos. Audio guides in various languages are also available to introduce the surroundings.

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines of the Bernina Express were declared a World Heritage Site in 2008. The Albula line extends from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. From Pontresina, the Bernina Line climbs from the valley to higher elevations. South of the Alps, the train passes through glaciers, lakes, and mountains, ultimately heading towards the Italian border, ending in Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps and offers travel opportunities throughout the year despite thick layers of snow.

Where to Stay on a Budget in Chur

Bogentrakt Hostel

One of the best hostel discoveries of the year is this beautiful new design hostel in Chur, Switzerland's oldest settlement. It is indeed one of the rare hostels located in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made many friends in the city. Chur is a place where the locals are extremely friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel is located in the heart of Chur, accompanied by a magnificent view of the vineyards, and has a dark past as it was once Switzerland's "toughest prison." The owner, Marco Leibundgut, has given new life to the historic building by transforming it into a vibrant hostel. The name of the hostel, "Bogentrakt," means "curved wing" or "curved section" in German, paying homage to the prison's distinctive curved structure.

Old prison cells have been elegantly transformed into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colorful history of the prison through QR codes and images displayed throughout the hostel.

The facilities are great and perfect for digital nomads - a private workspace available without an extra fee, a really nice guest kitchen for guests to use (which is quite handy considering how expensive it is to eat out in Switzerland), and a common area that includes a library, board games, and a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel's laundry service is also available, which is quite convenient. There is a drink kiosk at the hostel's reception where you can get local drinks and a beer. Additionally, there is a small shop offering local products, food essentials, and daily body products that you might need during your stay. The hostel organizes dinner events and plans a happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. Also, during the summer months, there is a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar with an open terrace. The Sennhof where the hostel is located also hosts local designers, a lovely flower shop, and an art gallery, so you can truly feel the sense of community and the feeling of being part of the town's daily life.

Freiband Sand

There are beautiful walking paths and nature near the hostel, which is another great advantage of staying here. Room prices start from 32 CHF per night per bed and 99 CHF for couples. Additionally, there is a special price of 399 CHF for a one-week stay booked directly through the hostel website.

Readers of BudgetTraveller who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel can receive a 10% discount: Please mention the BUDGETTRAVELLER code when making your reservation. Also, everyone who books with my code will receive a free mystery local drink upon arrival.

Free Chur Guest Card

It is worth reminding that everyone staying at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur is entitled to a free Chur Guest Card. This card offers a great range of benefits, such as:

Free use of public transportation in Zone 1 (2nd Class) on the TransReno fare network. Not valid for bicycles and dogs. Valid after check-in. Not valid for Bernina Express and Glacier Express.

2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the Sand outdoor swimming pool.

3. Free entry to local museums: Rhaetian Museum, Graubünden Natural History Museum, Graubünden Art Museum.

4. Chur-Brambrüesch cable cars: Visitors receive a 50% discount on ascent and descent, and a 25% discount on daily bike tickets (Alpenbikepark Chur and daily bike ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). Please show your guest card at the cable car ticket office to receive your ticket. Guest card tickets are valid until 5 PM. Evening rides and rides on August 1st are not included.

Best Things to Do in Chur: FAQ

How can I travel to Chur?

Chur is well connected with frequent services from major Swiss cities like Zurich, Basel, and Geneva. The train journey from Zurich to Chur takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. You can also drive to Chur via the A13 highway or fly to Zurich Airport and take a train from there.

What are the must-see places in Chur?

Chur is home to many attractions such as its charming old town, historic cathedral, town hall (Rathaus), and stunning views of the Swiss Alps. Additionally, scenic train journeys like the Bernina Express and Glacier Express also start from Chur.

What is the best time to visit Chur?

The best time to visit Chur is during the summer months (June-August), when the weather is warm and ideal for exploration. The winter months also offer a magical experience with snow-covered landscapes and festivals.

What local dishes should I try?

Chur is famous for Swiss cuisine such as fondue, raclette, and rösti. Don't forget to try the local cheese and chocolate.

What currency is used in Chur and where can I exchange money?

The currency used in Chur is the Swiss Franc (CHF). You can exchange money at banks, currency exchange offices, or ATMs in the city.

Is there a tourism information center in Chur?

Yes, there is a tourism information center located at Bahnhofstrasse 32, next to the main entrance of Manor. They offer maps, brochures, and helpful tips for your visit.

How can I get around in Chur?

Chur is a walkable city where many attractions are within walking distance. There are also public transportation options like buses and trains available to explore the surroundings.

I hope this information helps! If there's anything else you would like more details on, please let me know.