“Everything you see can turn into a fairy tale, and you can find a story in everything you touch.”
Hans Christian Andersen
Located just 75 minutes from Copenhagen, Odense is Denmark's third largest city, quite calm and idyllic with its narrow cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. Sometimes, you feel like you’ve stepped out of the fairy tale of the beloved son HC Andersen, who lived in Odense until the age of 14. From Andersen’s childhood home to the new HC Andersen Museum designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Andersen’s legacy is evident everywhere you walk in Odense. While every guide to Odense online praises Andersen, I want to show you the other side of Odense and paint the bigger picture. In this guide to the best things to do in Odense, I will provide information about all the cool things the locals do, where they eat, and a rather unique festival. No matter where you look, there are interesting stories and personalities waiting to be discovered in Odense. Here’s my guide to the best things to do in Odense - let’s start with a visit to the beautiful Odense harbor, where a unique experience awaits you.
1. Swimming at Odense Harbor Bath
Address: Gamle Havnekaj 3, 5000 Odense C
Odense Harbor Bath (harbor bath) is located right in the middle of Odense Harbor with its striking physical presence, and it’s hard to miss. Resembling a ship, with its deck and red-and-white striped cabin, this free swimming facility is a must-visit for swimming enthusiasts. The bathing facilities are open year-round - with water temperatures of three degrees in winter, it's not a challenge for the faint-hearted. On the contrary, swimming in summer is quite a pleasant experience. Take advantage of the sauna on-site, but don’t forget to bring your own towel. Contrary to expectations, the pool water is chlorinated and not sourced from the cold Baltic Sea. In addition to swimming, various activities such as basketball, football, volleyball, rollerblading, and parkour are available in the area.
The bath in the harbor is open during limited hours in the morning and afternoon. Check the website for the most up-to-date opening hours and visiting times.
2. Visit the Magical Kramboden
Address: Nedergade 24, 5000 Odense, Denmark
Kramboden means ‘old shop’. This building from the 16th century has been used as a merchant's house and now showcases a wide range of Danish household items for everyday use, along with antique and museum replica furniture. The corners are filled with treasures, and the entire atmosphere is imbued with the charm of the past. It’s filled with baskets, brooms, thick ropes, paper goods from the past, metal watering cans, pottery, and Christmas decorations - there’s plenty to catch the observer's interest.
3. Nelle’s Coffee and Wine
Address: Overgade 21b, 5000 Odense C
Nelle’s Coffee and Wine is located on the edges of historic Overgade, quite close to the Hans Christian Andersen House. After visiting the house and museum, or if you want to start your day with a good coffee, sit at one of the outdoor terrace tables and watch the world go by. The cakes here are fantastic, and if you have a sweet tooth, they also serve half-price wine between 5:00 PM and 6:00 PM.
4. Explore the Odense Art Scene
Odense's art scene, despite its modest size, is impressive and you will discover various art pieces spread throughout the city - sculptures, statuettes, and street art. The characters from HC Andersen's fairy tales come to life in beautiful sculptures on the streets of Odense. The tourism office has prepared a great map and guided route for the sculptures - click here. Beyond that, here are a few of my favorites:
Ocean, sculpture
The famous national artist Svend Wiig Hansen is the creator of the bronze sculpture Ocean, which is either loved or hated by the locals, and this piece attracts the attention of every visitor to Odense. It is indeterminate whether Ocean's shape is more masculine or feminine, and the interest in the piece lies somewhat in its grotesque features. Bulging feet, misshapen limbs, an open chest, and a gaze looking peacefully towards the sky - it compels you to stop and look. The bronze goddess was gifted in 1992 by the Odense City Art Foundation and Asea Brown Boveri A/S and has since dominated the city's street art scene.
Hans Christian Andersen Mural
The high-roofed brick building hosts a mural of Odense's most beloved citizen - writer Hans Christian Andersen. No 26 Bangs Boder is coincidentally quite close to the Hans Christian Andersen museum. The black-and-white mural is the work of artist Don John, who grew up on the outskirts of Odense.
The twelve-meter-high image is in black and white. This distinctly highlights the author's features. The eyes gaze dreamily into the distance, depicting the artist in a thoughtful mood.
Roa, Odense Harbor
Three sides of Odense's grain silo are adorned with large artworks by the artist ROA, who also has works in other cities. The murals at Odense Harbor, known for their large-scale depictions of animals, are no exception. Large fish, birds with sharp beaks and piercing eyes appear to be suspended upside down, perhaps greeting you.
5. Try Local Smoked Cheese, “rygeost”
Rygeost is an original Danish cheese, with its roots on the island of Fyn, where Odense is located. Some trace the history of rygeost cheese-making back to the Vikings, but more recently, this cheese has been found on farms in Fyn since the 19th century.
The cheese has an unripe and shell-less soft texture. Its unique smoky flavor is produced through infusion with the smoke of freshly harvested oats or wheat straw beneath the cheese. Slightly sour and delicious, Rygeost is best enjoyed spread thickly on dense rye bread and perhaps flavored with thinly sliced red radish. When mixed with sour cream and herbs, the smoked cheese gains new life.
The best place to try the cheese in Odense is at the local farmer's market in Sortebrødre Torv. The market is open year-round every Wednesday and Saturday from 08:00 to 13:00.
6. Lunch at Cafe Fleuri
Address: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark
In the heart of Odense, find a beautiful slice of Paris at Cafe Fleuri. Located on the outer edge of the old district, Cafe Fleuri is an ideal spot to take a break between strolls and enjoy something delicious. Enjoy fresh organic foods, open sandwiches, salads, cakes, and pastries with hot and cold drinks for breakfast, a hearty brunch, or a light lunch.
The interior of the café is filled with shining chandeliers, elegant Parisian decor, vintage-inspired artworks, and sparkling glassware. On beautiful days, the outdoor courtyard filled with potted plants and shaded umbrellas is the perfect place to enjoy a cozy drink with a friend.
7. Take a Boat Tour with Odense Aarfart
Address: Filosofgangen 30B, 5000 Odense C, Denmark
Proceed towards the inner parts of the Odense River and enjoy the peaceful nature in the city center of Odense with a scenic riverboat tour. The one-hour round trip with Odense Aarfart starts from Munke Mose and makes stops at the Odense Zoo, then continues towards Erik Bøghs Sti. You can reach Funen Village with a 15-minute walk from Erik Bøghs Sti. The boats are currently powered by solar energy, providing a quiet and peaceful experience. The boats are wheelchair accessible, and you can use the return trip at any time during the day. During the summer months, a special boat tour with live music is organized on Saturdays.
Round trip tickets are 109 DKK and can be purchased online from here or at the Aafarten café and ticket office inside ‘Kunstbygningen’. Boat tours are available from April 1st to September 30th and during the autumn holidays.
8. Visit Brandts Art Museum
Address: Amfipladsen 7, 5000 Odense C
Located in the heart of Odense, Brandts Art Museum is the cultural center of the city and a place to explore the old masters of Danish painting and contemporary artists. It is easy to get lost among the five floors of the largest art repository in Funen. The 250-year history of Danish art is packed into various corners, offering visitors a comprehensive view of the country's cultural landscape. Additionally, there are many special annual art exhibitions. The museum features a special sensory art exhibition that could be interesting for both children and adults - definitely something to consider. The family workshop guarantees a learning experience for the whole family.
On Thursdays, museum visitors can take advantage of extended hours, and the museum is open until 9:00 PM. The museum café has a Happy Hour from 4:00 PM to 6:00 PM, and two drinks for one is a great opportunity. The museum café, overlooking Amfi Square, is an inspiring place with many sculptures and a stunning mural. In addition to beverages like tea and coffee, wines and special beers are also offered, along with delicious seasonal cakes and pastries, healthy salads, and sandwiches.
The museum shop is a lovely place to get a souvenir of your visit - a postcard, lithograph, art book, poster, or another design product.
Tickets are 130 DKK, with a discounted price of 75 DKK for students. Children under 17 are free.
9. Evening Drinks at Anarkist Beer & Food Lab
Address: Albanigade 20, 5000 Odense C
Framed by bricks, the very large arched window and neatly arranged bicycles at Anarkist Beer and Food Lab serve as a gateway to the world of beer and everything related to it in Odense. Located in the 160-year-old Albani Brewery, the venue includes a microbrewery and café offering a local taste. The microbrewery is named after Theodor Schiøtz, the founder of the Albani breweries. There is a small exhibition celebrating the history of beer brewing on the premises. Anarkist’s Bottle Shop offers visitors the chance to take home a variety of local beers.
10. Dinner at Storms Pakhus
Address: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark
Similar to Reffen in Copenhagen, this large industrial-sized warehouse at Odense Harbor has been transformed into a space where food enthusiasts can come together and enjoy the wide range of Odense’s growing gastronomic scene. The 3000 square meter area at Storms Pakhus features around 24 food stalls and six bars, staying open late on Friday and Saturday nights. We tried a noodle soup and a Thai red curry, and neither dish disappointed. We also loved the atmosphere here, with many students and people of all ages. They have a busy event calendar with quiz nights, markets, DJs, and more. From Monday to Friday, many stalls offer one of their main dishes at a discounted price of 55 DKK between 11:00 AM and 3:00 PM - the best value lunch offer in the city.
When to Visit Odense: Heartland Festival
One of the most important points of coming to Odense was, of course, to visit the Heartland Festival in Midtfyn. Here are my highlights from Heartland:
1. Amazing Music
Last year, a dream came true as we had the chance to see Robbie Williams live for the first time. The Cardigans delivered a fantastic performance, and we also caught our favorite Danish band, Prisma.
This year's lineup looks amazing and includes:
Anne Sanne Lis
Nile Rodgers & CHIC
Phoenix
Tom Odell
Tim Christensen
Tina Dickow
Blaue Blume
Blue Foundation
Selma Judith
Afenginn
Elias Rønnenfelt
Brennen Leigh
Dan Smalley
Zandy Holup
2. A Sustainable Festival
The festival has a strong focus on sustainability and eco-friendly practices. The festival is quite sensitive to recycling and is powered by renewable energy sources. Good railway connections have also made it easier for people to come to the festival. Visitors can expect a series of talks on sustainability-related topics and issues. There was a strong focus on local food and drink producers, such as great cocktails from local beer Anarkist and local sparkling wine from Stokkebye. My favorite food spot was Landcafe, which offers organic, vegan, and plant-based burgers. The goal is for at least 80% of the food at the festival to be plant-based and 20% to be animal-based. Whenever possible, the festival purchases locally from the island of Fyn and within Denmark. There was even a special lounge to help visitors learn more about making sustainable investments or developing their own businesses.
3. Great Atmosphere
Holding the festival on the grounds of Egeskov Castle adds a fairy-tale atmosphere to the event - the entire castle park feels like a large outdoor gallery with various art and design objects, video and light installations. There is plenty of space to relax, and there are many toilets and water stations for visitors.
There are many fun things to do - a playground and the Casa Bacardi dance stage where you can learn salsa - fantastic.
Additionally, this is a family-friendly festival with a separate play area for children (makeup station/costumes/bouncy filled with sponges) and special food options. Overall, the festival caters to a wide adult audience - we felt right at home here. Another big plus is the 4000 volunteers from the local community who make the festival possible.
What Could Be Better
This is a festival for Danes. It was disappointing that most of the talks were in Danish. I hope they reach a wider audience in the future and make it more accessible.
Where to Stay in Odense
This small but well-located private apartment is about 1.5 km away from some of Odense's key attractions, including the Odense City Hall, Funen Art Gallery, and Concert Hall. The Hans Christian Andersen House and St. Knud Cathedral are also quite nearby.
This one-bedroom apartment with a terrace has a private entrance and features a living room with a flat-screen TV in addition to the bedroom. The kitchen is fully equipped with many amenities, including a dishwasher, dryer, stove, and refrigerator.
Principled Wi-Fi is available throughout the property. The accommodation prices are around 100 euros per night.
Disclaimer
Our trip to Odense was made possible with the kind support of Destination Fyn and the Heartland Festival. However, all opinions expressed here, good or bad, are entirely my own. Thank you for reading, and I am grateful for your continued support of the blog.
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