Riga is a city that is suitable for walking and brings together many striking architectural styles. As a result of being governed by Germany, Sweden, and Russia, this city is one of the rare places where you can quickly establish a genuine connection by strolling through its streets and observing its architecture. In the early 2000s, Riga became one of the first cities where Ryanair launched direct flights from Glasgow, making it an emotional favorite for me. It has changed quite a bit since then. The city is bustling with tourists and is a perfect place for a long weekend getaway. It's filled with hip bars, affordable and excellent dining options, and a vibrant nightlife. To assist you, I have compiled my tips on where to eat in Riga and where to drink based on my recent trip. I hope this list convinces you to add Riga to your travel gastronomy list.
Where to Eat in Riga
1. Mārtiņa Beķereja, Riga’s Oldest Bakery
Address: Brīvības iela 80
For a different breakfast, head to Mārtiņa Beķereja, the oldest bakery in Riga. Here, local pastries start at just 0.50 €! You can find a wide range of baked goods from various pastries to cakes. I especially recommend trying the savory pizza-like Pikanta pastry. Then, try the excellent sweet cherry Kirsu pastry. Both were delicious and cost only a total of 1.65 €!
2. Āgenskalns Market
Address: Nometņu iela 64
The next stop is Āgenskalns Market. This market, dating back to 1898, is the largest and oldest market in the city and reopened after a major renovation last year. On the first floor of the renovated pavilion, you can buy local products from farmers, local producers, and vendors.
There are plenty of options. I tried the local-style cottage cheese pancake (Biezpiena Placenisi); it pairs perfectly with sour cream or cherry jam. Then, I tried Sidonia, a local specialty drink, which is Quince Lemonade. It was fresh and quite tasty. The locals describe it as non-alcoholic Prosecco!
I got my coffee from Kalve Coffee, which is one of Latvia's leading coffee roasters. On the second floor, there’s a food hall where you can find popular places like Ausmena Kebabs, which serves some of Latvia's best local dishes, and Vīnkalni, probably the best pizzeria in Riga.
3. Riga Central Market
Don’t forget to visit the Riga Central Market; it is one of the largest central markets in Eastern Europe. The market has five pavilions converted from German Zeppelin hangars dating back to the 1920s. This complex, built in Art Deco and Neoclassical style, is a UNESCO World Heritage site along with the Old Town of Riga.
Here, you can find all kinds of local flavors, from smoked fish to pickled vegetables, beets, and varieties of local cheese.
One of my personal highlights of the market is the Rupnicas Veikals kiosk at the back of the market. Here, local beers, Kvass, and generous glasses of wine are offered at quite reasonable prices. I recommend trying maizītes — Latvian open sandwiches. These sandwiches, served on rye bread, vary in toppings like pickled herring, egg, and smoked salmon. They were really delicious and each cost just a few euros.
Another recommendation for the market is Registan, an Uzbek café and bakery. Everything looks great here, especially the Uzbek bread fresh out of the tandoor. Don’t forget to try the lamb curry samsa.
4. Burzma
Address: Galerija Centrs, 4th floor, Audēju iela 16
Burzma is a new dining hall concept where you can try everything from oven-baked pizzas to traditional Latvian pork chops, as well as Ukrainian, Mexican, Georgian, and Asian cuisines. You can also find delicious drinks and cocktails from Herbarijs.
I tried the delicious Juskaa soup with white garlic bread from the Ukrainian restaurant Borscs (5 €). Other classic dishes you can taste here include grechanka, pampushka, and lesser-known delicacies like sirnik. There is also a Boom Cafe buffet where you can taste a mix of local and international cuisines; here, meal prices start from 2-3 €.
5. Lauvas Nams
Address: Brīvības iela 82
I wanted to visit an ednica (Latvia's version of a milk bar), but since I couldn't go to one, I came to this buffet restaurant located across from the local theater. It is quite popular, especially for those out at night, as it is open 24 hours.
The meals are very affordable and there are many options available. I tried goulash with mashed potatoes; it was super delicious. The most interesting dish is definitely the cold beet soup Aukstā zupa. With its deep pink color, this soup is made with beets, cucumber, kefir, and sometimes boiled egg. It is given an extra sour taste by adding a bit of vinegar along with dill and green onions on top.
6. Singh’s
Address: Ģertrūdes iela 32
Probably the best Indian restaurant in Riga. The chef and many staff are from India. They will ask you how spicy you want your food and will make everything spicy!
7. Terra
Address: Blaumana iela 9
This place is cheap and easily suitable for takeout, specializing in large salads or simple carbohydrate + meat hot combinations. If you like the food, you can get a stamp card for a free meal.
8. Tavs Banh Mi
Address: Ģertrūdes iela 9
Across from the embassy, this is Riga's only traditional banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich) vendor. Tavs Banh Mi understands the importance of the sriracha sauce that is served with every order. Remember that this place closes at 20:00.
Where to Find Good Vegetarian and Vegan Food in Riga
9. Rama / Stock Pot / Terapija
Rama (Kr. Barona iela 56) is the only fully vegetarian restaurant in Riga; not even meat (including fish and chicken) is allowed inside. This restaurant is affiliated with the Hare Krishna Center and prices are based on weight; prices drop after 19:30.
Note: If you are looking for affordable Asian food, try Stock Pot (Ģertrūdes iela 6). There are many delicious vegan and meat options available, and you can always find something interesting. Another great lunch option is the wonderful vegan restaurant Terapija; here, you can get soup + main dish (I had a delicious falafel salad) for just 4.70 € (between 12-16).
Where to Drink in Riga
10. Tallinn Street Area
Address: Radošais kvartāls, Tallinas iela,
Another cool and trendy place in Riga is the Tallinn Street Area (Tallinas kvartāls), this place, which was an old ambulance depot, has been revitalized and is now filled with hip bars and street food vendors. A large courtyard among the transformed abandoned buildings hosts many events. In terms of atmosphere and character, it reminds me of Kasarna Karlin in Prague and LxFactory in Lisbon.
11. Zefirs
Address: Sporta iela 2, Vidzemes priekšpilsēta
Zefirs, located next to Paisums, a pretty cool wine bar in Riga's Skanste district, offers delicious cocktails and pizzas baked in a stone oven in a lively atmosphere (really good electronic music).
12. Herbarijs
Address: Dzirnavu iela 67
You will find Herbarijs, a cool concept bar where you can try delicious cocktails and drinks in a bustling environment.
I recommend trying the Cascara Lemonade, a caffeinated lemonade, and the tasty Alica Ingvers ginger lemonade made from Caucasian plums grown in Latvia.
13. Kanepas Cultural Center
Address: Skolas iela 15
Once a ruin, this 100-year-old building has now become a center for drinks, conversation, and cultural events. The center has a courtyard that hosts many events during summer nights. Check the Facebook page to see what's happening: https://www.facebook.com/Zoo.KKc/
14. Valmiermuiza Craft Brewery
Address: Aristida Briāna iela 9a
Have a fun time at Latvia's Valmiermuiža brewery, where you can taste delicious beers, hearty Latvian dishes, and great beers. The beer is produced with great care using the highest quality ingredients. You can try everything from old malt beer to shandy and distilled lager. Then you can drink beer at Labieties and then Piens.
Where to Stay on a Budget in Riga
1. Two Wheels Hostel
This is a great hostel that seems to have many stories to tell. You feel more like you are staying at a friend's family home. The building of Two Wheels Hostel is wonderfully rustic; creaky wooden floors, winding stairs, and green ferns hanging from the windows. An interesting space that combines historical Latvian architecture with a family touch. As a result, the rooms are cozy and comfortable. A great buffet breakfast is served every morning between 9:00 - 11:00 at the reception bar; it includes toast, boiled eggs, cold cut platters, yogurt, cereals, black filter coffee and hot water for tea, pitchers of orange juice, and plenty of fruit. You are just a 15-minute walk from the landmarks of the Old Town. The hostel is pet-friendly and most rooms have private bathrooms.
Address: Balozu iela 12, Zemgales priekspilseta, Riga, LV-1048, Latvia.
When booked through Hostelworld.com, the price for a 6-bed mixed dormitory is €17, and double rooms start at €60 on Booking.com.
2. Tree House Hostel Riga
This is a bright and minimalist-style hostel located right in the middle of many important places; Livu Square is just 50 meters away and the Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theatre is 100 meters away. A little further ahead is the Latvian National Opera and a park with the beautiful Freedom Monument. The rooms here are clean and comfortable. The heart of the hostel is a wonderfully equipped shared kitchen and a lounge area where everyone sits with a book or a cup of tea. The free breakfast is quite filling and sufficient; the staff is very helpful with important matters like tips and laundry.
Address: Kaļķu iela 11A (4th floor), Riga
For reservations made through Hostelworld.com, prices in the 6-bed mixed/female/male dormitory are around €14, while double rooms are about €70.
Day Trips from Riga
If you are visiting Riga, you might want to consider day trips to Sigulda, Jelgava, or Valmeira.
Sigulda Guide
Things to Do in Jelgava
Valmeira Guide
Also, here is my 48-hour guide for Riga.
Description
I visited Riga as part of a storytelling project focused on Latvian food culture. My trip was sponsored by LIAA, but all opinions expressed here are entirely my own. I thank LIAA for bringing me back to Riga; I hope to return again soon.
Comments
(6 Comments)