If you want to enjoy life in a real Athenian neighborhood, Koukaki, located in the shadow of the Acropolis, is a place where you can find a mix of historic bakeries, cafes, and bars, a bit of greenery, and interesting architectural styles. If you want to feel the food scene of Athens but have limited time, this food tour in Koukaki is just for you. Here’s a summary of the places we visited and dined at.
Note: If you are planning a trip to Thessaloniki soon, don't forget to check out my previous guide on Athens and my guide on where to eat in Thessaloniki.
1. Pandora
Lempesi 1, Athina 11742
Our virtual food tour begins with Pandora, one of the oldest bakeries in Koukaki, hidden on a side street near the Acropolis. What they are famous for are heavenly pastries that are an indispensable part of the Greek and Athenian diet and can be enjoyed anytime - at breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The pastries here are made with homemade phyllo dough and are prepared on-site every day. There is a range of pastries to try with interesting fillings; from zucchini to cheese, and pasta.
During the tour, we tried two classic versions - spinach and cheese, and chicken. Both were wonderful, the phyllo was crispy and delicious, as were the fillings. A perfect start.
2. Tavern Thomas
Dimitrakopoulou 18, Athina 11742
Our next stop, Tavern Thomas, is a restaurant that brings a modern twist to Athens' post-war tavern since the 1950s. The dishes served here range from olive oil homemade bread, lamb with greens, mashed potatoes, pastries, Greek salad, boiled meats, and fish.
Under the leadership of Chef Dimitris Panayiotou, we had the opportunity to taste olive oil along with homemade sourdough bread. Then, as a typical meze, we were served pea puree and zucchini balls. Both were fantastic.
We sipped these with a perfect local white wine called Malagousia. All the products come from the Peloponnese region, where the chef's roots are. Overall, it was a very pleasant and beautiful experience.
3. Pantopolion
Dimitrakopoulou 34, Athina 11742
The next stop is a popular local deli that Theodore took us to: Pantopolion not only offers authentic Greek dishes but also presents visitors with many Greek drinks such as tsipouro, tsikoudia, and wine, along with cold cuts and cheeses.
In the ‘third’ part of the tour, the owners Giannis and Stavros offered a tasting plate that included Graveira cheese from Crete, cold cuts like bacon and salami, olives, along with tsipouro and the famous Mastiha - a liqueur made from the resins of a tree that only grows on the island of Chios. I loved all the products, especially the salty and aged Graveira cheese.
4. Dyo Dekares Oka
Anastasiou Zinni 29, Athina 117 41
Our final stop was a dinner where we enjoyed homemade Greek classics in one of Athens' warmest taverns. If you want to visit a typical Athenian tavern, this place is just for you; the walls are adorned with guitars and memorabilia related to Greek music. Run by three brothers, this tavern feels more like a place where friends and family come together, and they invite you into their home. The brothers have managed to keep family recipes and culinary traditions alive, making this place the essence of Athens. We were greeted with delicious homemade moussaka, oven-roasted eggplant, feta cheese, marinated chickpeas, and tzatziki.
‘If you want to see what Athens was like in the '50s, this street is a time capsule of those times.’
End the tour with a walk on Tsami Karatasou, one of the most beautiful streets in Athens. On this street, you will find some of the finest examples of neoclassical architecture, along with a few abandoned mansions squeezed between 70's apartment buildings, with barred doors.

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